Istanbul to Oludeniz

Istanbul - Gallipoli - Cannakale - Troy - Selcuk - Ephesus – Pamukkale - Fethiye - Oludeniz

Merhaba!

THE NOT SO SIMPLE WAY TO ISTANBUL

Because of bad planning, I had booked a flight from Amman Jordan to Istanbul. I had changed my flight 4 times in order to visit the other areas of the middle east, but the location had to stay the same. So, since I was in Israel, I had to make my way to Jordan airport to fly to Turkey.

So, I left Jerusalem to catch a bus to get to the Israeli border into Jordan (which I got through in 2 minutes thanks to a pushy but friendly woman working there who dragged me through to the arms of a waiting bus conductor), then from the border into Amman, in order to catch a bus to the airport. The theory I had was, I could sleep and hang out in the airport, and then enter international airspace before 1am to avoid departure tax. What was I thinking? Got to the airport at 6pm to find that there is nowhere to sleep and no shops to peruse outside the check in point! And I couldn't check in and enter international airspace till 2am (the flight was 4am).

So for 8hrs I did nothing (though did talk to the second Muslim fundamentalist I met that day at a cafe, a good one, not a negative one like the first I met at the bus stop. This second one actually cried when he heard about 9/11, saying that is not true Islam, Islam is about humanity, you can only kill a person as punishment if that person has murdered someone else (to prevent repercussions and enforce justice). Suicide is also a major sin in Islam, meaning suicide bombing is not anything to do with Islam, but of winning a war (think Japanese Kamikaze pilots).


ISTANBUL (OR BYZANTIUM OR CONSTANTINOPLE)
Arrived in Istanbul absolutely knackered, and encountered some exceptional friendliness by the people I met from the airport to the hostel I ended up staying at. Turkish people are generous, friendly and hospitable (but only if they are not trying to sell you something, which unfortunately exists in all the tourist places. For example, trying to find the cost of a bus to another town, they'll insist you go through one of their tours instead. Ask for a good place to eat,
they'll insist you eat at their place only because everywhere else you'll get sick!

Anyway, mix Lisbon, Prague and Stockholm together with a bit of oriental flavouring, and what do you get? Istanbul. Built on two continents, split in three parts by the bosphorus strait, and with beautiful colourful Ottoman, Malmuk and Byzantine buildings, multi-domed multi-minareted mosques, and enormous palaces on the waterfront, Istanbul is a stunning jewel in the crown of Europe.

Went to the famous 400yo Blue Mosque, it's 6 minarets and roof consisting of half domes and domes, the interior decorated with stained glass and patterns giving it the distinctive blue effect within. Aya Sophia, a 1600yo church converted to mosque stands opposite, a beautiful garden separating the two. Aya Sophia is considered designed by God, except I don't think God would have scaffolding all over the place. Also visited the dramatic Suleyman Mosque on top of a hill, dedicated to one of the founders of Turkey (Suleyman the Magnificent).

Skipped the overpriced over-touristed Topkapi palace, opting for the more dramatic eerie Basilica Cistern, a huge underground dark cavern supported by 600+ pillars, lit only by strategically placed red and green lighting illuminating the pillars and waters below with the massive fish swimming around, organ music completing the atmosphere. A definite must see.

The grand bazaar/souk/covered market was impressive, though I thought very clean, organised and polished compared to middle east standards. As a result, something felt missing there, it felt more like an ordinary marketplace. Could be that this side of Turkey is very European indeed.

Did a cruise on the Bosphorus strait from Istanbul to the Black Sea and back, passing by ancient beautiful mosques and palaces on the waterfront on the turquoise blue waters, enjoying a delicious fish/calamari/mussels meal in the many fish restaurants waiting eagerly for people on the cruise to arrive...

It is unfortunate, but due to the change of currency (they have scrapped the millions of lire by removing the 6 zeros), their desired entry to the EU, and tourism, prices have gone up dramatically. Some people think that joining the EU would be good for the economy, but the poorer Asian/East part of Turkey is now where near ready to join the EU. We'll just have to wait and see...


GALLIPOLI
Did a small tour involving Gallipoli and Troy (got ripped off too!).

Gallipoli was impressive, being able to walk amongst the trenches, view the extremely steep terrain the ANZACS had to climb up, and the stories of what happened during the war. The war between the Aussies and Turks was considered a "gentlemen’s war", in that they both were evenly matched, and knowing that, believed that killing each other was pointless, instead becoming friends in a war that had nothing really to do with them (Turkey being tricked by Germany to join the Axis, Aussies being told what to do by the Brits with their poor management of the whole affair there).

It is amazing the stories of bravery, courage, and humanity.
One story: The Turks were given rations of tobacco, but had no paper to roll it in. They filled a large bag with tobacco, and waved a white flag to cease fire. A Turkish boy ran to the Aussie trenches a few metres away and gave them the bag with a note along the lines of "We have Tobacco. You have paper. Trade?" The Aussies threw the bag back with all the paper they could fill it with. After that, an eerie silence followed, along with many wisps of smoke coming up from both trenches...

I could tell more, but this email is too long. But I sure feel proud to be an Australian!


TURKISH HOSPITALITY
Stayed the night in Canakkale, where the wooden horse used in the latest Troy movie resides. Got lost finding the hostel, so ended up asking some locals in a shop. They didn't speak English, so I thanked them and was about to leave except they stopped me, saying "one moment, don't go". All three of them then took out their mobile phones and started calling all their friends they knew could speak English! And then, after I explained my situation to the person on the phone, they all led me to the hostel! Turkish hospitality - nothing beats it!


TROY
Went to Troy, which had a dodgy wooden horse in front of the ruins. Troy is actually 9 cities all built on top of one another, the 6th Troy allegedly being the one told in Homers Iliad. The site was pretty boring, and heavy rain didn't really help enhance it. Still, nice to be able to see for myself the location of a legend.


SELCUK AND EPHESUS
Selcuk is a nice town, with a castle and etc, but most people go there to see Ephesus, which is a pretty cool preserved roman ruin, with many statues and pillars gracing the site. The famous library which you see in all postcards is deceptively large (due to the architects brilliance).


PAMUKKALE
A stunning place, Pamukkale is really a rural Turkish village with a touristic street leading to a spectacular natural phenomena –the travertines. Nature has created a mountain where a spring with mineral and calcium deposits trickle down the enter face of the mountain, creating turquoise blue ponds and pools on snow white terraces. On top
there is a thermal bath where you can swim in a pool littered with old pillars and ruins that had been there previously. Definitely a must see!


PARAGLIDING IN OLUDENIZ
Caught a local bus through stunning mountain views and rural villages to Fethiye, a very touristy harbour and coast on the south of Turkey.

Went paragliding in Oludeniz. Absolutely fantastic! First you are driven in a Jeep up rugged terrain and narrow dirt roads up the mountain till you are 2000m up with stunning views all around. Then you put on this outfit and then connected to your pilot. A nice breeze in the right direction, running down a gentle slope, and up in the air you're flying! Oludeniz is the second best place to do paragliding apparently, and the stunning views of the Blue Lagoon, Butterfly Valley and the beaches of Oludeniz is spectacular! Even got to do some spin dive tricks which was wicked!


NEXT?
I will be spending the next two weeks sleeping on boats, treehouses and caves, as I will do a boat cruise to Olympos, chill out there, then go to Cappadocia with stunning natural rock phenomenon! Afterwards I may do East Turkey, or head to Bulgaria Stay tuned!