Living in a remote Syrian Monastery

Beirut - Tripoli - Mar Musa Monastery - Amman

Salaam Aluykum habibi!

Last time I left you I was in Beirut, Lebanon with Richard, a guy from the US doing some travelling with me.

There is something about the Middle East, in that everything is so laid back, and you really get into the whole lazing around doing nothing and taking it easy. "Sha'allah, Sha'allah" (God Willing) is often a phrase heard as an answer to anything in regards to time. "When will the bus leave?" "Sha'allah." "Where is the shai (tea) we ordered?" "Sha'allah." Even I’ve started using it in response to questions, though I prefer to use the cool sounding "mish mush kila" (no worries).

BTW, you may have heard of the car bomb that killed a prominent anti-Syrian journalist recently, well I’m safe and well, it was as most car bombs, targeted, and it was several blocks away. Mish mush kila.

Anyway, we reluctantly left Beirut (especially after I met two lovely Lebanese girls - one the receptionist at the nightclub with great knowledge of middle east politics, the other a sweet girl and a wonderful dancer. The problem though is that when you try to meet girls, you have to meet their male chaperone/family/friends first. If they perceive you as not a threat then you are free to pursue the girl. Unfortunately I only just got welcomed into their group and
invited to come out with them just when I had to leave the next day. Sigh. Problem with travelling is that you can't form relationships or deep attachments with people because you have to move on. Only flings. Which isn't necessarily a bad thing.


TRIPOLI
Right, so, we went to Tripoli the next day, and regretted it. Tripoli is pretty much a dump, the "best souk in Lebanon" was average, the castle was small and plain, and all the streets were covered with dirt, dust, and rubbish. At least the people were very nice, and the pastries were delicious (being famous for it and all).

We left Tripoli the next day, heading for the Mar Musa Monastery in central Syria. I was planning to go on my own, but Richard decided in the last minute to tag along instead of heading for the Syrian coast as he planned.

It was quite interesting to see our driver bribe the border guards with a loaf of bread, which instantly disappeared into the hands of a passing guard before we were waved through with minimal bag and passenger searches. A smooth operation indeed.


MAR MUSA MONASTERY

Faux Pas of the day: "Jesus Christ! We're in a monastery, we shouldn't be talking about girls!"

Often heard saying: "We are so going to hell after saying that!"

Mar Musa Monastery is situated 1300m on a mountain hidden in a valley in the desert, somewhere between Damascus and Homs. Our driver had trouble finding it, since you end up driving into the middle of nowhere, along a mountainside, until you turn a corner and lo and behold it appears magically in front of you high above.

It was built in the 6th Century by Orthodox monks, the church within bearing faded earthen paintings from 11th Century. The Monastery was then taken over by Syrian Catholic monks, the church now containing colourful 13th century paintings of Saints, Judgement day, and the Virgin Mary. Later, it was abandoned (not sure why), and was
rediscovered over 100 years ago. Now it is populated with 4 monks, a couple of day-trippers, some volunteers helping clean and cook, and a hermit who lives in a cave higher up and comes down every Sunday for supplies before disappearing for the week. There is also a mule, some dogs, a few always hungry cats, and a turtle named "turtle" that wonders around the courtyard, sometimes coming over to share meals with us where we feed it slivers of cucumber.

(Speaking of which, me and Richard did buy another turtle as a companion gift, but the turtle ran away and we can't find it. How do you lose a turtle!?!!!)

We climbed up the 1.5km of stone steps with our heavy backpacks, and then entered the monastery through a small door 1m high. We were immediately given food and water and were able to enjoy the beautiful views below.

We were welcomed to stay, receiving free meals and accommodation in return for helping clean, cook and do some work. I only intended to stay for 2 days, but have ended up staying for over 10 days!

There are usually 2 church sessions, before breakfast, and before dinner. Each session begins with 1hr meditation in the church among candlelight, then 1hr singing, playing music, reading and sermoning in Arabic and occasionally French.

The church is quite unconventional. For one thing, you sit on the floor on laid out rugs and carpets, much like an Islamic mosque. Candles are lit, instruments are played, and meditation is done, much like Hindu or Buddhist. The sermons are all Catholic, but are done in arabic. All this is related to the intercommunion aspect of the monastery (see further below).

Meals are fairly basic but delicious, often consisting of a mezze of tomato, cucumber, olive oil, spices, cream cheeses, and some pita bread. Hot sweet tea (black or herbal) is usually consumed with the meal. Lunches are more varied, with a huge pot of rice mixed with meat or vegetables covered with yogurt, or pasta served for the people in the monastery, and any day trippers who happen to be around.

The monastery is well equipped, with a fantastic library in multiple languages, telephone, even internet access, though I denied myself to use it as I wanted to shut myself from the outside world for a while. Women and men would sleep in different quarters outside of the monastery on opposite sides of the mountains.

It is alot of fun being one of the people welcoming visitors (mainly French or arabic), offering them water and finding out about them. Many afternoons are spent napping or quiet contemplation on the mountain, monastery courtyard overlooking the views, or in the church itself.


THE 3 PRINCIPLES OF MAR MUSA

The monks focus of 3 principles:
1. Hospitality - "Hospitality is the highest virtue" This is emphasised by the way we greet people with water, tea and conversation when they arrive, and allow them to stay and share meals with us.
2. Meditation - An end to itself, important for reflection and pondering the mysteries of the world, and of your own self.
3. Intercommunion with other religions, races and creeds. By uniting people and religions by focusing on the similarities, many muslims, Hindus and Catholics come to visit and are inspired as a result. It is a overwhelming and inspirational idea, trying to bring the religions closer so that we all can share the messages within and be at peace
with one another.


BUILDING A CAVE
One of the monks (Frederick) had recently been given permission to build a cave higher up in the mountains for him to have some more peace and quiet from the monastery which can get quite busy with visitors - in other words somewhere more remote than remote. We had volunteered ourselves to the task.

Frederick didn't want just an ordinary cave. No, he wanted a double story cave, the second floor of wood being his bed and study. On top of that he wanted a perplex see-through roof so see the stars through at night.

First we had to lug heavy wooden beams, sand, concrete and gallons of water 500m up the mountain, through rugged terrain, a couple of cliff faces and beaten gravel paths, before we found the cave, 5m up on a narrow ledge above us. I'm surprised none of us fell with our burdens! We also had to dig out and carry/roll huge stones down the steep slope near the cave entrance to the cave, which was to be used with concrete to build the entrance (the front of the cave was wide open).


LEARNING ABOUT MYSELF IN THE MONASTERY
Through discussions with the monks and through quite contemplation and solitude up in the mountains, I’ve learnt alot about myself and what I’m missing in my life.

My 3 motives in my life are:

1.To live life to the fullest, and to assist others to do the same. I have a burning desire to help people enrich their lives, to teach, to inspire, to assist in the fulfilment of their dreams.

2. To find a place where I could really belong in the world. I've always felt that I’ve never truly belonged anywhere. Being born in Australia with an Asian background, I’ve felt that I’ve never quite fit in with the Australian nor Asian way of life. My existence is quite a lonely one, deepened with the tragic death of my best friend last year. My need to travel is sparked by the need to find a place that I truly feel I belong in and be comfortable spending my life,
spiritually and physically.

3. To find a soul mate in the world who truly loves and understands me, and vice versa, to share my life with, so that I no longer feel alone in the world.

I am not a religious person. If there is a God, I don't believe he is the vengeful God as written in the bibles. The way I view Jesus, Muhammad, Buddha, etc, is not ordained by God, but in essence people look up to them because they are in fact, heroes. They stood up for a belief of being true and good to themselves and to others, and never
faltered in the face of oppression, suffering and death.

I could very well see myself in future living my life there. I would spend years learning French and Arabic, and pouring over the many intriguing tomes in the library. I've even been offered by the monks to remain in a cave of my own! But now is not the right time for me to do so. I still have a voracious appetite for visiting and understanding
the many cultures around the world, deepening my understanding and education of the mysteries of life and myself.


NOW WHAT?

Reluctantly, we left Mar Musa monetary, and headed straight to Amman, Jordan. Tomorrow we will head towards West Palestine - I mean Israel, and Jerusalem.

Till next time,
Ma salaama,