(Croatia) Dubrovnik - (Bosnia) Mostar - Sarajevo - (Serbia) Belgrade
Zdravo!
DUBROVNIK
Dubrovnik, called the "Jewel of the Adriatic", doesn't have the same crowds and carnival holiday atmosphere of Budvar, nor the long beaches, but it does have a really impressive walled old town overlooking the sea. Huge fortress walls enclose the spanking clean shiny marble pavemented town, where, sloping down from the walls to
the main street in the centre via a maze of narrow picturesque streets lie grand old buildings, arcades and basilicas of renaissance/neoclassical/Italian design, and numerous pizzerias that you tire of very quickly. The beaches were quite disappointingly small but pleasant. Oh, and a useless fact, did you know the Croatians invented the tie?
THE BEAUTY AND THE HORROR OF BOSNIA
Bosnia is a beautiful place, yet you are often confronted with the horrors of the past years of war and torment. Travelling through the countryside amongst huge mountains covered with mist reminiscent of Chinese mountains, with turquoise rivers meandering through the valleys dotted with old romantic cottages, now abandoned or a gutted
out version of it's former glorious self - the inhabitants long vanished, perhaps now living abroad, scattered about or killed in the wars. It really is quite tragic.
It is also the more terrible when you meet the locals, who are extremely warm and hospitable, and do not mind talking about the war. It is a shame that in so many countries, people are so friendly and nice, but at the same time detest and loathe other nations. Syrians/Lebanese hate each other, Jews and Palestinians also, Macedonians hate the Greeks, Albanians are hated by the Serbians and Macedonians, Bosnians hate Serbians, Polish hate Germans, the list goes on.
MOSTAR
Mostar is a beautiful and fascinating place. Here lies the famous Mostar bridge, a aesthetic bridge of white stone arching gracefully without supports over the beautiful turquoise rivers, the old town of stone houses with grey slate tiled roofs and cobbled ankle twisting streets clinging precariously on the steep rugged banks either side of the bridge. This bridge is a symbol of Croat-Muslim unity, and was actually destroyed by Croat shelling during the fighting between them, but is now rebuilt. Tensions between the Croat and Muslims have died down but things will never quite be the same again. In fact, walking along the front line between the Muslim/Croat areas, you could see the mosques on the Muslim side and churches being built on the Croat side - one church right on the front line with a absurdly tall steeple, probably sending a subtle message to the Muslims I reckon.
What was sad was walking down the front line, where on both sides of the street, especially the weaker Muslim side, bullet and shell holes cover the buildings, many buildings also blown up or on verge of collapse. All around are signs on buildings stating "Dangerous Ruin - do not enter or park here", dangerous not only because it could collapse, but also because of the possible unexploded mines and shells which could cause serious injury or death to those who inadvertently step on them. Landmines is a problem in Bosnia, and the rule of thumb is to keep to asphalt or concrete surfaces, avoiding soft ground or abandoned looking places and suburbs.
SAREJEVO
If there’s one place that people coming to Europe must see, it is Sarajevo, a place full of history, beauty and tragedy. A beautiful city with a Turkish influenced old town of wooden huts and cobbled streets, surrounded by cascading terracotta roofed houses up to the hills and mountains enclosing the city. Outside the old town it turns into a bleak communist style buildings of grey concrete, many still bearing the scars of the Serbian siege less than 10 years ago. Some buildings and schools are now just husks and burned out shells. On the pavement you would see what is called "Sarajevo Roses", that is, patterned concentric marks on the ground where a mortar shell had hit and exploded.
Walked along Sniper Alley, where Bosnian Serbs shot at innocent civilians all the way to the UN airport, where a secret tunnel had been dug by the locals, a tunnel which saved the city during the 3 year siege by being the only way to the outside world where they could get supplies, since the impotent UNPROFOR had been notoriously
incompetent, in fact they were supplying 50% of their aid to the Bosnian Serbs, the other to the Sarejevians, which meant that things just got drawn out longer than it should have.
The tunnel was difficult to find, at the end of a long muddy road outside of Sarajevo in the middle of nowhere, yet it is one of the most visited museums in the city. The Tunnel is a symbol of the human spirit during times of oppression and is truly an inspiring place to visit.
All around you would see on any patch of grass, numerous cemeteries, transforming fields of green into fields of white marble. It touches the heart seeing so many graves that only existed in the last 10years.
Also saw the bridge that Archduke Ferdinand was assassinated by a Bosnian Serb, which sparked WW1 and changed this area of the world forever.
BELGRADE' S SECRET
After a long dusty rickety bus ride through terrible roads (at one stage we drove through a corn field on a mud track!), I finally made it to Belgrade.
Belgrade! Not the most beautiful place to visit, in fact it's just a very typical looking city filled with Austrian-Hungarian architecture and occasional NATO bombed buildings, but the secret that is Belgrade is that it has one of the best nightlife in the world! Along the river there are several barges, all nightclubs pounding all kinds of music into the early morning. Also, bars, clubs and cafes in the city, some outside, some hidden in some old unmarked building, are fantastic places to go party. In fact, I haven't really done much in Belgrade, mainly sleeping in the day and going out partying at night. The locals are all extremely friendly and the girls are stunning and very approachable! In fact last night I went out with some staff working at the fast food restaurant near the hostel after they finished work. Belgrade is that kind of relaxed friendly place.
Of course, they also have a different view of what happened with the wars etc. They maintain that it was Bosnian Serbs, not Serbians that were fighting in Bosnia. Secondly, they state it was the Albanian Kosovians that started the conflict because Kosovo is holy ground for the Serbs, with many 11th Century churches and monasteries that were
destroyed by the rioting Kosovos which of course angered the Serbians. Not that the Serbians were justified with their bloody retributions to the thousands of murdered Muslim Albanians as a result. But it does make you always think about what you are being told on the news etc. There is always two sides to a story, and rarely is it not biased.
Anyway, tomorrow I may go to Romania, if I can actually get up and leave this city, which has a way of keeping you here...
Sunday, August 28, 2005
Friday, August 12, 2005
Albania and Montenegro
Shkoder - (Montenegro) Budvar - Cetinye - Kotor - Sveti Stefan - Herceg Novi
Dobro den,
LAST THINGS ABOUT ALBANIA
So, Albania, a country where power and water cuts are frequent, roads and public transport is terrible, buses refusing to travel after dark due to fears of banditry of times past, and currently in-between governments. Lets also not forget the lack of street names and street numbers (the postman just happens to know what is what, more to
experience and knowing who's who than logic).
Albania is also 70% Muslim, though you wouldn't know it. Being the only atheist country in the world during the communist era, everyone is a non practicing such and such, though this could change now that the country is open to the world and outside religious influence. Though I am told that Albanians would consider blowing oneself up for
God as absurd, and even more absurd would be them giving up alcohol!
Did meet some interesting people. The hostel owner happened to also be a TV anchorman, who I had hilarious discussions on the quirky, amusing (yet also shameful) story of Albanian politics. Also briefly hooked up with a pretty American Jewish girl called Olivia, with Moldavian roots, working in Kosovo, who amongst many things told me about the state of affairs with the UN and Kosovo. The UN apparently should leave Kosovo to rebuild their lives since the UN staff do nothing but seek ways to remain employed rather than solving problems.
I also discovered how friendly the Albanians really are when you are out of the capital city. It's not that people in Tirana are unfriendly, it's just that they are more reserved and shy. The ones who do talk to me always inevitably ask the question "So why are you here?" I guess they cannot perceive their country as being a tourist attraction.
The people are generally good humoured and happy, astonishing considering their past turbulent unhappy years. As with the rest of the Balkans and Eastern Europe, bad politics has ruined what was once such an affluent rich fertile land full of manor houses, country villas and romanticised people into a disorganised broken down state, with bleak communist concrete buildings and war torn ghost towns - where the people had vanished from what was once vibrant towns I wouldn't know. But it's a dreadful shame to know that all these changes had only occurred within the last 50 years.
Finally, I must not forget my tradition of rating the girls in each country I visit. In Albania I could say they are prettier than Macedonians, but can't compete with Bulgarians and Montenegrins. Albanian girls take on all sorts of appearances; it's hard to stereotype their look. Olivia was often mistaken for Albanian, which made it more amusing when shocking the locals when seen with me, an Asian, rarely seen in Albania, holding hands down the street!
Sometimes when you get stared at all the time as I do, you find it's fun to mess with locals heads...
MONTENEGRO
Is a beautiful country. Montenegro, meaning "Black Mountain", is very much that; all over the tiny country are towering mountains burdened with lush green vegetation and little villages all the way to the dramatic coastal beaches and resort towns. Cheaper than Croatia and most of the popular beach resorts of Europe, Montenegro is a local secret (which will probably change in a few years time). You don't really see any foreigners here that do not have Slavic roots. So the staring and "Chinese" whispered in the wind continues...
BUDVA
Is a resort town that I stayed at, the largest and most populated with tourists and vacation beach seekers mainly from the ex-Yugoslavian countries. A plethora of hotels, private apartments, outdoor bars, cafes and clubs as well as street side stalls and a carnival, to create that true "I am on holiday" feeling amongst the huge "almost sandy" pebble beaches, blue water, tiny islands and the reconstructed walled old town fortress with the narrow sandstone coloured buildings and angled streets, on a peninsula overlooking the blue Aegean sea.
At night, the crowds do what Balkan crowds do best - strut their stuff in the promenades in the ritualistic evening stroll, to see and be seen. The girls here are stunning, very tall, and as with most girls I encounter, completely unattainable!
The funniest thing I’ve seen is the flying boats they have here, which is literally a boat with wings flying overhead.
The problem with travelling solo is that there are no single rooms at all in Montenegro, because they couldn't imagine anyone travelling on their own, especially here. Which makes things a little lonely for me, since I rarely find English speakers, and everyone has company. Sigh.
CETINYE - OLD CAPITAL OF MONTENEGRO
Was a little disappointing, the bus trip there and back was beautiful though high up on the mountains overlooking the towns by the sea. Anyway, I did check out the Monastery which contains a piece of the True cross, and also the brown mummified Hand of John the Baptist which was used to baptise Jesus. Lovely. Apart from that though, just a series of old buildings used as embassies, and many outdoor cafes.
KOTOR
Kotor is one of those places I fell in love with immediately upon arrival. Situated on the deepest fjord in southern Europe, the Italian influenced walled old town sits at the edge of a beautiful bay of glass, perfectly reflecting the surrounding grey mountains covered with forests and, in the case of Kotor, a solemn ruined fortress, which is a heck of a climb up, but worth the dramatic views. The town itself, consisting of narrow streets, piazzas and plenty of places to sit, have a coffee and watch people walk by. Indeed, Kotor would be on my favourite towns list, and I could see myself easily retiring here one day..
SVETI STEFAN
Is a small island fortress of terracotta roofed stone houses and buildings, accessed through a causeway from the mainland. Although you don't bother going into the place as it is just a hotel complex, the beaches around are quite nice, with the picturesque view of the island in front of you.
HERCEG NOVI
Stupid thing about Montenegro is it is not very logical. You would think there would be several buses going to touristy Dubrovnik from Budvar, which is really not that far away. But of course there is only 1 morning bus, which was booked out, so I thought I’d make my way to the border town of Herceg Novi, for surely there'd be heaps of buses going to the Croatian town. Of course, upon arrival (at 10am), I’m told "Nope, this is Montenegro, you have to wait till 4pm for the next bus!" This being annoying because I wanted to arrive early to find cheap accom. So, stuck in Herceg Novi, I thought I’d make the best of a bad situation and explore the steep hilly town (with my big backpack
mind you). But it is worth it, the town doesn't get a good mention in the Lonely Planet guidebooks, but it is a beautiful Italian inspired old town worth a look.
It is here that I am writing this, waiting for the bus to Dubrovnik...
Dobro den,
LAST THINGS ABOUT ALBANIA
So, Albania, a country where power and water cuts are frequent, roads and public transport is terrible, buses refusing to travel after dark due to fears of banditry of times past, and currently in-between governments. Lets also not forget the lack of street names and street numbers (the postman just happens to know what is what, more to
experience and knowing who's who than logic).
Albania is also 70% Muslim, though you wouldn't know it. Being the only atheist country in the world during the communist era, everyone is a non practicing such and such, though this could change now that the country is open to the world and outside religious influence. Though I am told that Albanians would consider blowing oneself up for
God as absurd, and even more absurd would be them giving up alcohol!
Did meet some interesting people. The hostel owner happened to also be a TV anchorman, who I had hilarious discussions on the quirky, amusing (yet also shameful) story of Albanian politics. Also briefly hooked up with a pretty American Jewish girl called Olivia, with Moldavian roots, working in Kosovo, who amongst many things told me about the state of affairs with the UN and Kosovo. The UN apparently should leave Kosovo to rebuild their lives since the UN staff do nothing but seek ways to remain employed rather than solving problems.
I also discovered how friendly the Albanians really are when you are out of the capital city. It's not that people in Tirana are unfriendly, it's just that they are more reserved and shy. The ones who do talk to me always inevitably ask the question "So why are you here?" I guess they cannot perceive their country as being a tourist attraction.
The people are generally good humoured and happy, astonishing considering their past turbulent unhappy years. As with the rest of the Balkans and Eastern Europe, bad politics has ruined what was once such an affluent rich fertile land full of manor houses, country villas and romanticised people into a disorganised broken down state, with bleak communist concrete buildings and war torn ghost towns - where the people had vanished from what was once vibrant towns I wouldn't know. But it's a dreadful shame to know that all these changes had only occurred within the last 50 years.
Finally, I must not forget my tradition of rating the girls in each country I visit. In Albania I could say they are prettier than Macedonians, but can't compete with Bulgarians and Montenegrins. Albanian girls take on all sorts of appearances; it's hard to stereotype their look. Olivia was often mistaken for Albanian, which made it more amusing when shocking the locals when seen with me, an Asian, rarely seen in Albania, holding hands down the street!
Sometimes when you get stared at all the time as I do, you find it's fun to mess with locals heads...
MONTENEGRO
Is a beautiful country. Montenegro, meaning "Black Mountain", is very much that; all over the tiny country are towering mountains burdened with lush green vegetation and little villages all the way to the dramatic coastal beaches and resort towns. Cheaper than Croatia and most of the popular beach resorts of Europe, Montenegro is a local secret (which will probably change in a few years time). You don't really see any foreigners here that do not have Slavic roots. So the staring and "Chinese" whispered in the wind continues...
BUDVA
Is a resort town that I stayed at, the largest and most populated with tourists and vacation beach seekers mainly from the ex-Yugoslavian countries. A plethora of hotels, private apartments, outdoor bars, cafes and clubs as well as street side stalls and a carnival, to create that true "I am on holiday" feeling amongst the huge "almost sandy" pebble beaches, blue water, tiny islands and the reconstructed walled old town fortress with the narrow sandstone coloured buildings and angled streets, on a peninsula overlooking the blue Aegean sea.
At night, the crowds do what Balkan crowds do best - strut their stuff in the promenades in the ritualistic evening stroll, to see and be seen. The girls here are stunning, very tall, and as with most girls I encounter, completely unattainable!
The funniest thing I’ve seen is the flying boats they have here, which is literally a boat with wings flying overhead.
The problem with travelling solo is that there are no single rooms at all in Montenegro, because they couldn't imagine anyone travelling on their own, especially here. Which makes things a little lonely for me, since I rarely find English speakers, and everyone has company. Sigh.
CETINYE - OLD CAPITAL OF MONTENEGRO
Was a little disappointing, the bus trip there and back was beautiful though high up on the mountains overlooking the towns by the sea. Anyway, I did check out the Monastery which contains a piece of the True cross, and also the brown mummified Hand of John the Baptist which was used to baptise Jesus. Lovely. Apart from that though, just a series of old buildings used as embassies, and many outdoor cafes.
KOTOR
Kotor is one of those places I fell in love with immediately upon arrival. Situated on the deepest fjord in southern Europe, the Italian influenced walled old town sits at the edge of a beautiful bay of glass, perfectly reflecting the surrounding grey mountains covered with forests and, in the case of Kotor, a solemn ruined fortress, which is a heck of a climb up, but worth the dramatic views. The town itself, consisting of narrow streets, piazzas and plenty of places to sit, have a coffee and watch people walk by. Indeed, Kotor would be on my favourite towns list, and I could see myself easily retiring here one day..
SVETI STEFAN
Is a small island fortress of terracotta roofed stone houses and buildings, accessed through a causeway from the mainland. Although you don't bother going into the place as it is just a hotel complex, the beaches around are quite nice, with the picturesque view of the island in front of you.
HERCEG NOVI
Stupid thing about Montenegro is it is not very logical. You would think there would be several buses going to touristy Dubrovnik from Budvar, which is really not that far away. But of course there is only 1 morning bus, which was booked out, so I thought I’d make my way to the border town of Herceg Novi, for surely there'd be heaps of buses going to the Croatian town. Of course, upon arrival (at 10am), I’m told "Nope, this is Montenegro, you have to wait till 4pm for the next bus!" This being annoying because I wanted to arrive early to find cheap accom. So, stuck in Herceg Novi, I thought I’d make the best of a bad situation and explore the steep hilly town (with my big backpack
mind you). But it is worth it, the town doesn't get a good mention in the Lonely Planet guidebooks, but it is a beautiful Italian inspired old town worth a look.
It is here that I am writing this, waiting for the bus to Dubrovnik...
Saturday, August 6, 2005
Sofia, Ohrid and Albania
(BULGARIA) Sofia - Rila Monastery - (MACEDONIA) Ohrid - Sveti Naum - Sveti Petrov - (ALBANIA) Tirana - Kruje - Durres
Mirdite!
STUCK IN SOFIA
Last time I left you I was stuck in Sofia for a week waiting for the Romanian Embassy to open (when it did it took only an afternoon to process. Sucks how Aussies have to get a 40USD visa at the embassy whilst almost everyone else can get a free one at the border!) Being misinformed and waking up late due to late night partying meant I stayed in Sofia rather than go anywhere else and come back when it opened. Although there is not much to see in Sofia (I saw all the sights the first afternoon I arrived), I became rather fond of the little city, the friendly locals, the multitude of cafes, restaurants and bars/clubs! I also became quite fond of the family run hostel staff, where I preoccupied myself with causing fun and mischief to drive Toni, the receptionist, insane.
Did go on a day trip however to Rila Monastery, a stunning monastery south of Sofia, decorated in red and black candy cane stripes and magnificent Byzantine frescos covering every wall and pillar, second to the Vatican itself in it's artistic majesty. This of course being contained in a courtyard surrounded by an enclosure four stories high
containing monk cells and arched balconies. And, as with most devout monasteries, situated in a remote valley of lush vegetation and mountains.
I must say that Bulgaria, with it's food, the people, the little picturesque villages and nature, has tied with Portugal as my favourite country so far to date.
HOSPITALITY IN OHRID
After sadly farewelling the hostel staff in Sofia after a week of hilariarty and fun spent with them, I left for Ohrid in Macedonia. Though upon reaching the border I was informed by the border guard that despite what Lonely Planet says, Visas for Aussies are not free, you must pay 25USD to get into Macedonia. Not sure if I was scammed or
not, but what can you do? So, having entered Macedonia 25USD lighter and not impressed, I arrive in Ohrid at 4am.
I was planning to stay at a house in the old city, but as fate turned out it was lucky I didn't, since I would have been walking a long distance up a steep hill in the dark to find it. Instead, I decided on the spur of the moment to ask a group of young people walking past if they knew any hostels or cheap rooms.
Such friendly people! They spoke English, and told me that indeed one of them has a cousin who lets out rooms in the residential area north of the center. So they drove me to the house where I was immediately served coffee and cigarettes. (Thing about Macedonians is that they smoke and drink coffee ALL THE TIME!!!! I've never had so much
nicotine and caffeine in my life (I don't usually smoke but only accept cigarettes because I feel disrespectful or out of place if I don't))
The mother who owned the house and her son Sasha did not speak any English, yet they were incredibly hospitable and did everything to make me feel welcome. The mother even cooked me dinner every night and called other cousins to come and take me around Ohrid and also to see the nightlife. Me and Sasha became close friends even though the extent of our conversation mainly centred around the words "Ubavo" (beautiful - in reference to nice girls walking past), and "Dobro" (good) for everything else.
Speaking of which, Macedonians like telling me that the girls are stunning in the country. Personally I think they are ok, the Bulgarian girls are way more hotter!
Luckily Macedonian is similar to Bulgarian as I was able to get the gist of many things being said by the frequent guests in the house (seems like everyone goes to everyone’s open houses at all hours to talk, drink coffee and smoke - I love it!)
Anyway, Ohrid is a beautiful place, the old town up a rocky hilly peninsula where a fortress citadel sits on top, 365 churches (for 10,000 people!), a roman amphitheatre, and the usual traditional old houses on cobbled streets. The peninsula ends with a rocky cliff where locals would dive into the deep blue crystal clear lake itself (265m at its deepest).
The nightlife was pretty disappointing however, as the clubs were all overcrowded that you couldn't move, and full of smoke.
SVETI NAUM
Did a day trip via ferry across the lake to Svet Naum, a 10th Century monetary on the other side of the lake. Georgian in it's style, with many soot covered frescos. Also a beautiful tranquil pool of water that becomes a rapid stream flowing icy water into the lake, the flow you can actually see in the lake itself being a greenish colour to the
surrounding blue lake. Nearby, people bathe and soak in the sun on the small beach, and here I also met many families from Melbourne (particularly from Epping), who were there like many other Macedonian families around the world, for a holiday back in their homeland.
I'm also starting to get locals staring at me and saying "Chinese" or "Jackie Chan". Not again! Same thing happened when I was in Morocco! Though they mean well, they also say "Hello" and "Welcome to Ohrid". I usually have to remind myself that they are not being racist, only curious, but it's a struggle sometimes. I wonder if less touristed
Albania would see an increase in this sort of behaviour...
SVETI PETROV
I arrived back to the house on my last day to receive a surprise from my "cousins", who took me to another monetary at night up a hill illuminated with a huge cross. As it turned out, almost everyone else in the town went to this monetary that night, because it was apparently the saint day of St Petro (Macedonians are devoutly religious folk). So, was taken through the throng of people past the stalls selling icons, toys and fairy floss in the monetary grounds, into the monastery itself, where they lit candles and made many prayers at different areas of the monastery; me, the spectator, overwhelmed by the immaculate frescos, the one of the Last Judgement especially intrigued me (why is hell always depicted as a large monster with flames coming out of it's mouth swallowing the damned in this part of the world?).
And then we went to a nightclub.
ALBANIA
After being sadly farewelled by my friends in Ohrid at the bus stop, I got on the bus and wondered what Albania had in store for me...
First, I had difficulty getting across the border because they only accept Euros for the entry tax and I only had US dollars. After some haggling they finally relented. Then, what was apparently meant to be a 3 hour trip turned out to be 6 hours, since we stopped for lunch at a restaurant for an hour, and we took the long way around, stopping at
towns around Tirana before actually going in to the capital itself.
Then, after finally arriving, I had to worry about finding an ATM that would accept my MasterCard. After trying a dozen ATMS, I finally found one that would (at least it's a far cry from 3 years ago where only one ATM existed in the whole country!).
And then I had to find the backpacker hostel (which had only opened last month, and is not yet registered. Was lucky to discover it's existence via a web forum otherwise I would have to find a hotel room which are expensive in otherwise cheap Albania).
After wandering around with a dodgy map along streets with no street signs or numbers, and asking locals who didn't even know what a hostel was let alone knew of the existence of one nearby, I finally stumble across it - a house with a large iron gate with the number 85 on it. Phew!
Anyway, Tirana is actually quite a nice looking city, due to the way they had painted all the communist era megalithic concrete block apartments and buildings with bright cheerful colours like pink, yellow and orange. It actually does work too! Apart from being pretty though, there is not really much to do.
The language is very difficult. Like the Bulgarians, they shake their head for yes and nod for no. Their language resembles nothing else on Earth. "Hello" is "Tungjajeti", "Thankyou" is "Yu falem nderit", and so on...
KRUJA
A pleasant little town, typically Albanian with the old houses scattered down mountain side, with imposing fortress on top and stunning views around. The little bazaar consisting of old wooden houses and cabins along rickety cobbled streets was the highlight, though they all seem to sell only souvenirs as opposed to anything practical...
DURRES
Is extremely disappointing (but that's what happens when you go to the closest beach instead of the famed steep cliffed beautiful Albanian Riviera (which would have taken 8hrs and 3buses and 1hr walk to get to). The buildings were decrepit, and the water was putrid and polluted. The upside with Durres at least is that the people are alot
more friendly than in Tirana.
Well, off to Montenegro tomorrow morning!
Mirupafshim!
Mirdite!
STUCK IN SOFIA
Last time I left you I was stuck in Sofia for a week waiting for the Romanian Embassy to open (when it did it took only an afternoon to process. Sucks how Aussies have to get a 40USD visa at the embassy whilst almost everyone else can get a free one at the border!) Being misinformed and waking up late due to late night partying meant I stayed in Sofia rather than go anywhere else and come back when it opened. Although there is not much to see in Sofia (I saw all the sights the first afternoon I arrived), I became rather fond of the little city, the friendly locals, the multitude of cafes, restaurants and bars/clubs! I also became quite fond of the family run hostel staff, where I preoccupied myself with causing fun and mischief to drive Toni, the receptionist, insane.
Did go on a day trip however to Rila Monastery, a stunning monastery south of Sofia, decorated in red and black candy cane stripes and magnificent Byzantine frescos covering every wall and pillar, second to the Vatican itself in it's artistic majesty. This of course being contained in a courtyard surrounded by an enclosure four stories high
containing monk cells and arched balconies. And, as with most devout monasteries, situated in a remote valley of lush vegetation and mountains.
I must say that Bulgaria, with it's food, the people, the little picturesque villages and nature, has tied with Portugal as my favourite country so far to date.
HOSPITALITY IN OHRID
After sadly farewelling the hostel staff in Sofia after a week of hilariarty and fun spent with them, I left for Ohrid in Macedonia. Though upon reaching the border I was informed by the border guard that despite what Lonely Planet says, Visas for Aussies are not free, you must pay 25USD to get into Macedonia. Not sure if I was scammed or
not, but what can you do? So, having entered Macedonia 25USD lighter and not impressed, I arrive in Ohrid at 4am.
I was planning to stay at a house in the old city, but as fate turned out it was lucky I didn't, since I would have been walking a long distance up a steep hill in the dark to find it. Instead, I decided on the spur of the moment to ask a group of young people walking past if they knew any hostels or cheap rooms.
Such friendly people! They spoke English, and told me that indeed one of them has a cousin who lets out rooms in the residential area north of the center. So they drove me to the house where I was immediately served coffee and cigarettes. (Thing about Macedonians is that they smoke and drink coffee ALL THE TIME!!!! I've never had so much
nicotine and caffeine in my life (I don't usually smoke but only accept cigarettes because I feel disrespectful or out of place if I don't))
The mother who owned the house and her son Sasha did not speak any English, yet they were incredibly hospitable and did everything to make me feel welcome. The mother even cooked me dinner every night and called other cousins to come and take me around Ohrid and also to see the nightlife. Me and Sasha became close friends even though the extent of our conversation mainly centred around the words "Ubavo" (beautiful - in reference to nice girls walking past), and "Dobro" (good) for everything else.
Speaking of which, Macedonians like telling me that the girls are stunning in the country. Personally I think they are ok, the Bulgarian girls are way more hotter!
Luckily Macedonian is similar to Bulgarian as I was able to get the gist of many things being said by the frequent guests in the house (seems like everyone goes to everyone’s open houses at all hours to talk, drink coffee and smoke - I love it!)
Anyway, Ohrid is a beautiful place, the old town up a rocky hilly peninsula where a fortress citadel sits on top, 365 churches (for 10,000 people!), a roman amphitheatre, and the usual traditional old houses on cobbled streets. The peninsula ends with a rocky cliff where locals would dive into the deep blue crystal clear lake itself (265m at its deepest).
The nightlife was pretty disappointing however, as the clubs were all overcrowded that you couldn't move, and full of smoke.
SVETI NAUM
Did a day trip via ferry across the lake to Svet Naum, a 10th Century monetary on the other side of the lake. Georgian in it's style, with many soot covered frescos. Also a beautiful tranquil pool of water that becomes a rapid stream flowing icy water into the lake, the flow you can actually see in the lake itself being a greenish colour to the
surrounding blue lake. Nearby, people bathe and soak in the sun on the small beach, and here I also met many families from Melbourne (particularly from Epping), who were there like many other Macedonian families around the world, for a holiday back in their homeland.
I'm also starting to get locals staring at me and saying "Chinese" or "Jackie Chan". Not again! Same thing happened when I was in Morocco! Though they mean well, they also say "Hello" and "Welcome to Ohrid". I usually have to remind myself that they are not being racist, only curious, but it's a struggle sometimes. I wonder if less touristed
Albania would see an increase in this sort of behaviour...
SVETI PETROV
I arrived back to the house on my last day to receive a surprise from my "cousins", who took me to another monetary at night up a hill illuminated with a huge cross. As it turned out, almost everyone else in the town went to this monetary that night, because it was apparently the saint day of St Petro (Macedonians are devoutly religious folk). So, was taken through the throng of people past the stalls selling icons, toys and fairy floss in the monetary grounds, into the monastery itself, where they lit candles and made many prayers at different areas of the monastery; me, the spectator, overwhelmed by the immaculate frescos, the one of the Last Judgement especially intrigued me (why is hell always depicted as a large monster with flames coming out of it's mouth swallowing the damned in this part of the world?).
And then we went to a nightclub.
ALBANIA
After being sadly farewelled by my friends in Ohrid at the bus stop, I got on the bus and wondered what Albania had in store for me...
First, I had difficulty getting across the border because they only accept Euros for the entry tax and I only had US dollars. After some haggling they finally relented. Then, what was apparently meant to be a 3 hour trip turned out to be 6 hours, since we stopped for lunch at a restaurant for an hour, and we took the long way around, stopping at
towns around Tirana before actually going in to the capital itself.
Then, after finally arriving, I had to worry about finding an ATM that would accept my MasterCard. After trying a dozen ATMS, I finally found one that would (at least it's a far cry from 3 years ago where only one ATM existed in the whole country!).
And then I had to find the backpacker hostel (which had only opened last month, and is not yet registered. Was lucky to discover it's existence via a web forum otherwise I would have to find a hotel room which are expensive in otherwise cheap Albania).
After wandering around with a dodgy map along streets with no street signs or numbers, and asking locals who didn't even know what a hostel was let alone knew of the existence of one nearby, I finally stumble across it - a house with a large iron gate with the number 85 on it. Phew!
Anyway, Tirana is actually quite a nice looking city, due to the way they had painted all the communist era megalithic concrete block apartments and buildings with bright cheerful colours like pink, yellow and orange. It actually does work too! Apart from being pretty though, there is not really much to do.
The language is very difficult. Like the Bulgarians, they shake their head for yes and nod for no. Their language resembles nothing else on Earth. "Hello" is "Tungjajeti", "Thankyou" is "Yu falem nderit", and so on...
KRUJA
A pleasant little town, typically Albanian with the old houses scattered down mountain side, with imposing fortress on top and stunning views around. The little bazaar consisting of old wooden houses and cabins along rickety cobbled streets was the highlight, though they all seem to sell only souvenirs as opposed to anything practical...
DURRES
Is extremely disappointing (but that's what happens when you go to the closest beach instead of the famed steep cliffed beautiful Albanian Riviera (which would have taken 8hrs and 3buses and 1hr walk to get to). The buildings were decrepit, and the water was putrid and polluted. The upside with Durres at least is that the people are alot
more friendly than in Tirana.
Well, off to Montenegro tomorrow morning!
Mirupafshim!
Saturday, July 23, 2005
James encounters contradictions in Bulgaria
Varna - Veliko Tarnovo - Plovdiv - Bachkovo - Koprishtitsa - Sofia
Zdravete!
IMPRESSIONS OF BULGARIA
Upon entering the country, one could feel the middle eastern influence slip away, replaced with something else, a more romantic, mysterious, melancholic atmosphere. A beautiful country, full of ancient monasteries and pretty medieval villages in picturesque settings, mountains, forests, a land steeped in folklore, legend, dancing, stories and music, the people a gentle, warm, proud welcoming race. The food is plentiful, rich and filling (though they have an obsession with too much salt!) Here lies the first contradiction - how a poor country like Bulgaria are able to have such good quality cheap food in large quantities, yet remain thin and in poverty? Consider too that salt was once as valuable as gold in the past, yet their (meat) dishes seem to contain alot of it! The second contradiction is how they could still afford to walk around dressed with the latest designer clothing when many people are still unemployed?
The women in Bulgaria are, as with most of Eastern Europe, absolutely stunning! Dressed in skimpy outfits and high heels, it's a mans paradise! However, despite that male chauvinist statement, it is indeed a "women on top" world here, where women are able to easily pick and choose out of the bunch of drooling males which ones they
prefer to have their way with and then leave hearts broken. However, on top of this contradiction lies another - most Eastern European girls are not arrogant, stuck up or snobby as one would think with their looks and power. In fact they (English speaking ones that is) are quite amiable, down to earth, fun and friendly. If only I could master their language....
Bulgarian is not the most easiest language to learn. I was hoping it would be similar to the Czech/Slovak I picked up last year (which it is in some cases such as Good Day = Dobre Den (Slovak)/Dobar Den (Bulgarian)), but there are many words like Thankyou = Dekuji (Czech)/Dekujem (Slovak), Blagodarya (Bulgarian) which is completely
different. Not to mention the alphabet is Cyrillic like Greek and Russian, which you must learn in order to get by in the country.
VARNA AND THE BLACK SEA
Because I had arrived in Varna late at night due to stupid bus I had to resort to getting a double room in a semi expensive hotel (all others were full), for 40 euros! Ironic how the most expensive room I’ve paid for is not in Paris, or England, but in poor Bulgaria!!
Found a cheaper room first thing in the morning, but did not know of the existence of a cheap hostel until I bumped into an English couple in Veliko Tarnova! Typical.
At least a nice old French couple I met on the bus to Varna shouted me lunch and dinner that day, so I guess some of the money I lost was made back through that...
Varna is a beautiful city by the Black Sea, where topless sunbathers would swim in waters that don't look as clean as I had hoped. In fact Black Sea should be renamed to Brown Sea from the looks of things. Still, Varna boasts an amazing cathedral, it's gold onion shaped domes similar to those seen in Russian architecture. Varna has large
pedestrianised streets and squares filled with chic designer clothes shops and banks, as well as overpriced hotels and amazing restaurants.
At night, the crowds shift to the waterfront, where a plethora of fancy grill and fish restaurants, outdoor bars, and beach night clubs abound, pounding music (lots of late 80's and 90's actually - seems to be an Eastern European obsession really) into the early morning...
VELIKO TARNOVO
A stunning place, a more dramatic version of Czech Republic's "Cesky Krumlov", a beautiful town filled with traditional wooden Bulgarian houses cascading down a curved gorge, several picturesque railroad and foot bridges connecting both sides of the gorge. At the highest point lies the Tsarvorets Fortress, an outstanding complex of ruins, sturdy ramparts, and a basilica in the center containing fascinating unique 80s bleak communistic style manga-esque murals of Christ.
I had also inadvertently visited Veliko Tarnovo at the same time that an International Folk Festival was being held, featuring folk acts from the Armenia, Eastern Europe, Korea, Italy, Spain, Mexico, and Russia (the latter two bringing the house down with it's fire dancing and frantic leg kicking, whilst Spain and Korea were surprisingly
disappointing and lacking in spirit. Italy's flag throwing was fascinating and original).
Stayed in a private house with a cheery old lady who was always giggling, sharing a room with a 60yo Aussie woman who had lived abroad in Spain for 16 years and was now motorbiking overland back to Oz to claim her pension. As you do.
PLOVDIV
The second largest city in Bulgaria, with a pretty medieval old town featuring houses from the Bulgarian National Revival period (created as silent protest against Turkish dominance and influence during their occupation during the Ottoman Empire, distinguished by colourful buildings with painted floral motifs and jutted out stories held up by curved heavy wooden beams...), amongst well preserved roman ruins, built upon rather uneven cobbled hilly narrow streets. Outside the old town the city is quite modern with the main pedestrianised thoroughfare lined with designer shops and chic bars and cafes.
Stayed in a private house of an old granny who I could only speak to in German, and her lovely granddaughter who luckily spoke fluent English.
BACHKOVO MONASTERY
Did a day trip out to Bachkovo Monastery. Was worried when I got on the bus because I asked the driver if it went to the monastery and he nodded his head. Bulgarians shake their head for yes, nod for no. To add to the confusion, they would do the opposite for our benefit. Thus I wasn't sure if he meant yes or no. Luckily, after passing through
some beautiful valleys and countryside, I made it to the monastery, containing several beautiful old basilicas with old Byzantine murals covered with centuries of soot and candle smoke, all set in a picturesque region surrounded by tall mountains.
JAMES BECOMES A HADZNI IN KOPRIVSHTITSA
After some difficulty of actually getting to this tiny village (public transport is not very reliable or frequent), I arrived to what is probably one of the most beautiful villages I have ever visited in my travels. Bulgarian National Revival style houses abound in the town divided by a series of small bubbling brooks and streams, crossed over on romantic stone bridges; the cobbled streets with wild grass poking through the cracks; upon which friendly farmers and locals would walk by with their herds of white goats or cows, or on a horse drawn carriage containing bundles of hay and local kids going for a ride.
The lovely woman whose house I stayed at (I could only communicate to her in French) lent me her prized book on an account of "A Bulgarian Pilgrimage from Koprivshtitsa to Jerusalem" which in the past was a rare but highly regarded thing to do, resulting in a person's name change to "Hadzni" (meaning Pilgrim in Turkish), and status being elevated to be considered an elder who's knowledge is unquestionable, upon visiting the holy land. After telling her about my travels from Jerusalem to here, I also earned the title of "Hadzni".
SOFIA
Sofia is the highest capital in Europe, being on a plateau 1000m above sea level. A very modern city, with no real attractions besides a few stunning Russian style influenced cathedrals, and the wicked nightlife, which I am recovering from as we speak.
It is here that I am writing this, in a lovely family owned hostel, while I await for the Romanian Embassy to open so I can get my visa before entering the country (via Macedonia, Albania, Montenegro, Croatia and Serbia). I could get it in Serbia but I want to get it over and done with now rather than later (Romania is the only place I am visiting in Eastern Europe that I need to get a visa in advance).
Zdravete!
IMPRESSIONS OF BULGARIA
Upon entering the country, one could feel the middle eastern influence slip away, replaced with something else, a more romantic, mysterious, melancholic atmosphere. A beautiful country, full of ancient monasteries and pretty medieval villages in picturesque settings, mountains, forests, a land steeped in folklore, legend, dancing, stories and music, the people a gentle, warm, proud welcoming race. The food is plentiful, rich and filling (though they have an obsession with too much salt!) Here lies the first contradiction - how a poor country like Bulgaria are able to have such good quality cheap food in large quantities, yet remain thin and in poverty? Consider too that salt was once as valuable as gold in the past, yet their (meat) dishes seem to contain alot of it! The second contradiction is how they could still afford to walk around dressed with the latest designer clothing when many people are still unemployed?
The women in Bulgaria are, as with most of Eastern Europe, absolutely stunning! Dressed in skimpy outfits and high heels, it's a mans paradise! However, despite that male chauvinist statement, it is indeed a "women on top" world here, where women are able to easily pick and choose out of the bunch of drooling males which ones they
prefer to have their way with and then leave hearts broken. However, on top of this contradiction lies another - most Eastern European girls are not arrogant, stuck up or snobby as one would think with their looks and power. In fact they (English speaking ones that is) are quite amiable, down to earth, fun and friendly. If only I could master their language....
Bulgarian is not the most easiest language to learn. I was hoping it would be similar to the Czech/Slovak I picked up last year (which it is in some cases such as Good Day = Dobre Den (Slovak)/Dobar Den (Bulgarian)), but there are many words like Thankyou = Dekuji (Czech)/Dekujem (Slovak), Blagodarya (Bulgarian) which is completely
different. Not to mention the alphabet is Cyrillic like Greek and Russian, which you must learn in order to get by in the country.
VARNA AND THE BLACK SEA
Because I had arrived in Varna late at night due to stupid bus I had to resort to getting a double room in a semi expensive hotel (all others were full), for 40 euros! Ironic how the most expensive room I’ve paid for is not in Paris, or England, but in poor Bulgaria!!
Found a cheaper room first thing in the morning, but did not know of the existence of a cheap hostel until I bumped into an English couple in Veliko Tarnova! Typical.
At least a nice old French couple I met on the bus to Varna shouted me lunch and dinner that day, so I guess some of the money I lost was made back through that...
Varna is a beautiful city by the Black Sea, where topless sunbathers would swim in waters that don't look as clean as I had hoped. In fact Black Sea should be renamed to Brown Sea from the looks of things. Still, Varna boasts an amazing cathedral, it's gold onion shaped domes similar to those seen in Russian architecture. Varna has large
pedestrianised streets and squares filled with chic designer clothes shops and banks, as well as overpriced hotels and amazing restaurants.
At night, the crowds shift to the waterfront, where a plethora of fancy grill and fish restaurants, outdoor bars, and beach night clubs abound, pounding music (lots of late 80's and 90's actually - seems to be an Eastern European obsession really) into the early morning...
VELIKO TARNOVO
A stunning place, a more dramatic version of Czech Republic's "Cesky Krumlov", a beautiful town filled with traditional wooden Bulgarian houses cascading down a curved gorge, several picturesque railroad and foot bridges connecting both sides of the gorge. At the highest point lies the Tsarvorets Fortress, an outstanding complex of ruins, sturdy ramparts, and a basilica in the center containing fascinating unique 80s bleak communistic style manga-esque murals of Christ.
I had also inadvertently visited Veliko Tarnovo at the same time that an International Folk Festival was being held, featuring folk acts from the Armenia, Eastern Europe, Korea, Italy, Spain, Mexico, and Russia (the latter two bringing the house down with it's fire dancing and frantic leg kicking, whilst Spain and Korea were surprisingly
disappointing and lacking in spirit. Italy's flag throwing was fascinating and original).
Stayed in a private house with a cheery old lady who was always giggling, sharing a room with a 60yo Aussie woman who had lived abroad in Spain for 16 years and was now motorbiking overland back to Oz to claim her pension. As you do.
PLOVDIV
The second largest city in Bulgaria, with a pretty medieval old town featuring houses from the Bulgarian National Revival period (created as silent protest against Turkish dominance and influence during their occupation during the Ottoman Empire, distinguished by colourful buildings with painted floral motifs and jutted out stories held up by curved heavy wooden beams...), amongst well preserved roman ruins, built upon rather uneven cobbled hilly narrow streets. Outside the old town the city is quite modern with the main pedestrianised thoroughfare lined with designer shops and chic bars and cafes.
Stayed in a private house of an old granny who I could only speak to in German, and her lovely granddaughter who luckily spoke fluent English.
BACHKOVO MONASTERY
Did a day trip out to Bachkovo Monastery. Was worried when I got on the bus because I asked the driver if it went to the monastery and he nodded his head. Bulgarians shake their head for yes, nod for no. To add to the confusion, they would do the opposite for our benefit. Thus I wasn't sure if he meant yes or no. Luckily, after passing through
some beautiful valleys and countryside, I made it to the monastery, containing several beautiful old basilicas with old Byzantine murals covered with centuries of soot and candle smoke, all set in a picturesque region surrounded by tall mountains.
JAMES BECOMES A HADZNI IN KOPRIVSHTITSA
After some difficulty of actually getting to this tiny village (public transport is not very reliable or frequent), I arrived to what is probably one of the most beautiful villages I have ever visited in my travels. Bulgarian National Revival style houses abound in the town divided by a series of small bubbling brooks and streams, crossed over on romantic stone bridges; the cobbled streets with wild grass poking through the cracks; upon which friendly farmers and locals would walk by with their herds of white goats or cows, or on a horse drawn carriage containing bundles of hay and local kids going for a ride.
The lovely woman whose house I stayed at (I could only communicate to her in French) lent me her prized book on an account of "A Bulgarian Pilgrimage from Koprivshtitsa to Jerusalem" which in the past was a rare but highly regarded thing to do, resulting in a person's name change to "Hadzni" (meaning Pilgrim in Turkish), and status being elevated to be considered an elder who's knowledge is unquestionable, upon visiting the holy land. After telling her about my travels from Jerusalem to here, I also earned the title of "Hadzni".
SOFIA
Sofia is the highest capital in Europe, being on a plateau 1000m above sea level. A very modern city, with no real attractions besides a few stunning Russian style influenced cathedrals, and the wicked nightlife, which I am recovering from as we speak.
It is here that I am writing this, in a lovely family owned hostel, while I await for the Romanian Embassy to open so I can get my visa before entering the country (via Macedonia, Albania, Montenegro, Croatia and Serbia). I could get it in Serbia but I want to get it over and done with now rather than later (Romania is the only place I am visiting in Eastern Europe that I need to get a visa in advance).
Saturday, July 9, 2005
Sleeping in boats, treehouses and caves in Turkey
Fethiye - Kas - Olympos - Chimera - Cappadocia
Merhaba!
Firstly, I’m safe and well after being left without internet access or newspaper, though I did hear about the London bombing whilst on the boat (amazing how news reaches the remotest places). Also, the bus bombing in Kusadasi was no where near me (the closest was when I was in Selcuk, which is 50km away, which I left a few days before it
happened). So all is well.
Secondly, I’m writing this while a little inebriated, so forgive the strangeness of my writing...
THE BLUE GULET CRUISE
Went on a Turkish gulet boat cruise for 4 days, sailing along the southern coast of Turkey from Fethiye to Olympos. We passed through stunning coastal scenery, little villages, and swam in isolated lagoons, including the "Blue Lagoon" where I did my paragliding. The chef on board was a wonderful cook - I never ate so well in my life (sorry mum) with the simplest of ingredients, absolutely divine!
You would think that being the only single guy on the boat I would end up with one of them, but unfortunately/typically for me it did not happen, even though the 5 girls that I ended up travelling with became known as my harem!
Kas was a nice coastal town, with pretty good nightlife. I encountered some locals who told me the best place to go, but said that because they had no girls with them they couldn't go in (neither did I then as the girls went to bed early). So I told them what about letting us in with me because I am a tourist and want to see the wonderful Kas
nightlife. This line along with my best puppy eyed innocent expression and we were in! The Turkish party pretty wild, although they do not consume as much alcohol as we do, they sure know how to dance, occasionally forming circles and having danceoffs!
Four days later, fattened up, nicely tanned (I sometimes get mistaken for Arab now I’m so dark) and very relaxed, we went for more relaxation in Olympos....
OLYMPOS - LAND OF THE TREEHOUSES
Olympos is basically a place where one truly does nothing. With a beach nearby (which one has to pay to walk through ruins to get to - scandalous!), and everywhere being pensions with wooden huts on stilts next to trees (so really it is a tree - house), restaurants, and clubs, all one does is chill out on the beach or the hammocks/pagolas
lined with rugs and carpets (a nice get up I want to set up back at home), smoking water pipes or playing backgammon (which I have really become addicted to - the speed the locals play is astounding, and the
skill - lost terribly to a local girl I met on the beach - yes we brought the backgammon board to the beach also!). Or go drinking and partying in the many clubs, one club being the Orange club, which is an open air courtyard, with towering mountains lit up with strobes and laser lights above - cool place but trance music terrible. Another club, according to another local girl, voted best club in the world 2003, called the Bull Bar, which is another courtyard club with a bonfire in the middle. Music was mediocre.
CHIMERA - THE NATURAL ETERNAL FLAME
Went to visit the Chimera at night, which is a natural phenomenon. Basically, gas (of an unknown composition) rises from the ground and when it makes contact with air, ignites into a flame, creating the mysterious flames that litter this area as if the ground has been set alight by a campfire nutter. Pretty cool (hot) stuff!
WHITE WATER RAFTING IN THE MIDDLE OF NOWHERE
Went with 2 of my harem (2 lovely south Africans) to go white water rafting. We thought it would be nearby, but 4 hours later and 3 blown rear tyres, we ended up in some national park in the middle of nowhere. The rafting was so much fun though, no more than grade 3 at most rapids - At one stage we got to get off the raft and jump into one of the rapids, floating terrifyingly fast downstream before swimming to the bank. We also made sure that we attacked every other raft nearby with water, making some really spectacular water fights I’ve been in.
CAPPADOCIA AND THE FAIRY CHIMNEYS
Left Olympos with only 2 of my harem left to Cappadocia in the center of Turkey. This landscape is also a natural phenomenon, due to volcanic upshifts of basalt and other factors, the land is now dotted with rock pillars that look like massive stone witches hats dominating the earth, many of these pillars with carved steps, caves and churches
with 11th century earthen frescos which the Hittites lived in the past. Also remarkable are the 8 level underground cities/fortresses, booby traps and all, which the people hid in when invading armies kept coming into their land. It is speculated that only 11 out of 36 have been found, all interlinked by dark tunnels, all able to contain over 10,000 people!
Hired a scooter to drive around the area scouting out the fairy chimneys and exploring, which was alot of fun, though couldn't go full speed due to the girls putt putting along, resulting in my engine constantly stalling...
HOT AIR BALLOONING IN CAPPADOCIA
Went on a hot air balloon ride to see Cappadocia from above, which was absolutely stunning (as you can see my trip in Turkey has been more of indulgence and thrill seeking than actual exploring of cultures etc). We rode the third largest balloon in the world in the place regarded as the best place in the world to hot air balloon in. The pilot was an experienced Belgium pilot who took us up high and down low close enough to the valleys where we could reach out and touch the trees or the rock cliffs - definitely worth the steep price tag.
AND NOW
I am in Istanbul again, having gone on an spending spree, getting a good deal on a backgammon board and a patchwork quilt in the famous covered market, and enjoying the sights and sounds of a city which is fast becoming one of my favourite cities in the world....
Tomorrow I head to Bulgaria, possibly Varna on the Black Sea coast, otherwise Sofia....stay tuned...
Gule Gule!
Merhaba!
Firstly, I’m safe and well after being left without internet access or newspaper, though I did hear about the London bombing whilst on the boat (amazing how news reaches the remotest places). Also, the bus bombing in Kusadasi was no where near me (the closest was when I was in Selcuk, which is 50km away, which I left a few days before it
happened). So all is well.
Secondly, I’m writing this while a little inebriated, so forgive the strangeness of my writing...
THE BLUE GULET CRUISE
Went on a Turkish gulet boat cruise for 4 days, sailing along the southern coast of Turkey from Fethiye to Olympos. We passed through stunning coastal scenery, little villages, and swam in isolated lagoons, including the "Blue Lagoon" where I did my paragliding. The chef on board was a wonderful cook - I never ate so well in my life (sorry mum) with the simplest of ingredients, absolutely divine!
You would think that being the only single guy on the boat I would end up with one of them, but unfortunately/typically for me it did not happen, even though the 5 girls that I ended up travelling with became known as my harem!
Kas was a nice coastal town, with pretty good nightlife. I encountered some locals who told me the best place to go, but said that because they had no girls with them they couldn't go in (neither did I then as the girls went to bed early). So I told them what about letting us in with me because I am a tourist and want to see the wonderful Kas
nightlife. This line along with my best puppy eyed innocent expression and we were in! The Turkish party pretty wild, although they do not consume as much alcohol as we do, they sure know how to dance, occasionally forming circles and having danceoffs!
Four days later, fattened up, nicely tanned (I sometimes get mistaken for Arab now I’m so dark) and very relaxed, we went for more relaxation in Olympos....
OLYMPOS - LAND OF THE TREEHOUSES
Olympos is basically a place where one truly does nothing. With a beach nearby (which one has to pay to walk through ruins to get to - scandalous!), and everywhere being pensions with wooden huts on stilts next to trees (so really it is a tree - house), restaurants, and clubs, all one does is chill out on the beach or the hammocks/pagolas
lined with rugs and carpets (a nice get up I want to set up back at home), smoking water pipes or playing backgammon (which I have really become addicted to - the speed the locals play is astounding, and the
skill - lost terribly to a local girl I met on the beach - yes we brought the backgammon board to the beach also!). Or go drinking and partying in the many clubs, one club being the Orange club, which is an open air courtyard, with towering mountains lit up with strobes and laser lights above - cool place but trance music terrible. Another club, according to another local girl, voted best club in the world 2003, called the Bull Bar, which is another courtyard club with a bonfire in the middle. Music was mediocre.
CHIMERA - THE NATURAL ETERNAL FLAME
Went to visit the Chimera at night, which is a natural phenomenon. Basically, gas (of an unknown composition) rises from the ground and when it makes contact with air, ignites into a flame, creating the mysterious flames that litter this area as if the ground has been set alight by a campfire nutter. Pretty cool (hot) stuff!
WHITE WATER RAFTING IN THE MIDDLE OF NOWHERE
Went with 2 of my harem (2 lovely south Africans) to go white water rafting. We thought it would be nearby, but 4 hours later and 3 blown rear tyres, we ended up in some national park in the middle of nowhere. The rafting was so much fun though, no more than grade 3 at most rapids - At one stage we got to get off the raft and jump into one of the rapids, floating terrifyingly fast downstream before swimming to the bank. We also made sure that we attacked every other raft nearby with water, making some really spectacular water fights I’ve been in.
CAPPADOCIA AND THE FAIRY CHIMNEYS
Left Olympos with only 2 of my harem left to Cappadocia in the center of Turkey. This landscape is also a natural phenomenon, due to volcanic upshifts of basalt and other factors, the land is now dotted with rock pillars that look like massive stone witches hats dominating the earth, many of these pillars with carved steps, caves and churches
with 11th century earthen frescos which the Hittites lived in the past. Also remarkable are the 8 level underground cities/fortresses, booby traps and all, which the people hid in when invading armies kept coming into their land. It is speculated that only 11 out of 36 have been found, all interlinked by dark tunnels, all able to contain over 10,000 people!
Hired a scooter to drive around the area scouting out the fairy chimneys and exploring, which was alot of fun, though couldn't go full speed due to the girls putt putting along, resulting in my engine constantly stalling...
HOT AIR BALLOONING IN CAPPADOCIA
Went on a hot air balloon ride to see Cappadocia from above, which was absolutely stunning (as you can see my trip in Turkey has been more of indulgence and thrill seeking than actual exploring of cultures etc). We rode the third largest balloon in the world in the place regarded as the best place in the world to hot air balloon in. The pilot was an experienced Belgium pilot who took us up high and down low close enough to the valleys where we could reach out and touch the trees or the rock cliffs - definitely worth the steep price tag.
AND NOW
I am in Istanbul again, having gone on an spending spree, getting a good deal on a backgammon board and a patchwork quilt in the famous covered market, and enjoying the sights and sounds of a city which is fast becoming one of my favourite cities in the world....
Tomorrow I head to Bulgaria, possibly Varna on the Black Sea coast, otherwise Sofia....stay tuned...
Gule Gule!
Friday, July 1, 2005
Istanbul to Oludeniz
Istanbul - Gallipoli - Cannakale - Troy - Selcuk - Ephesus – Pamukkale - Fethiye - Oludeniz
Merhaba!
THE NOT SO SIMPLE WAY TO ISTANBUL
Because of bad planning, I had booked a flight from Amman Jordan to Istanbul. I had changed my flight 4 times in order to visit the other areas of the middle east, but the location had to stay the same. So, since I was in Israel, I had to make my way to Jordan airport to fly to Turkey.
So, I left Jerusalem to catch a bus to get to the Israeli border into Jordan (which I got through in 2 minutes thanks to a pushy but friendly woman working there who dragged me through to the arms of a waiting bus conductor), then from the border into Amman, in order to catch a bus to the airport. The theory I had was, I could sleep and hang out in the airport, and then enter international airspace before 1am to avoid departure tax. What was I thinking? Got to the airport at 6pm to find that there is nowhere to sleep and no shops to peruse outside the check in point! And I couldn't check in and enter international airspace till 2am (the flight was 4am).
So for 8hrs I did nothing (though did talk to the second Muslim fundamentalist I met that day at a cafe, a good one, not a negative one like the first I met at the bus stop. This second one actually cried when he heard about 9/11, saying that is not true Islam, Islam is about humanity, you can only kill a person as punishment if that person has murdered someone else (to prevent repercussions and enforce justice). Suicide is also a major sin in Islam, meaning suicide bombing is not anything to do with Islam, but of winning a war (think Japanese Kamikaze pilots).
ISTANBUL (OR BYZANTIUM OR CONSTANTINOPLE)
Arrived in Istanbul absolutely knackered, and encountered some exceptional friendliness by the people I met from the airport to the hostel I ended up staying at. Turkish people are generous, friendly and hospitable (but only if they are not trying to sell you something, which unfortunately exists in all the tourist places. For example, trying to find the cost of a bus to another town, they'll insist you go through one of their tours instead. Ask for a good place to eat,
they'll insist you eat at their place only because everywhere else you'll get sick!
Anyway, mix Lisbon, Prague and Stockholm together with a bit of oriental flavouring, and what do you get? Istanbul. Built on two continents, split in three parts by the bosphorus strait, and with beautiful colourful Ottoman, Malmuk and Byzantine buildings, multi-domed multi-minareted mosques, and enormous palaces on the waterfront, Istanbul is a stunning jewel in the crown of Europe.
Went to the famous 400yo Blue Mosque, it's 6 minarets and roof consisting of half domes and domes, the interior decorated with stained glass and patterns giving it the distinctive blue effect within. Aya Sophia, a 1600yo church converted to mosque stands opposite, a beautiful garden separating the two. Aya Sophia is considered designed by God, except I don't think God would have scaffolding all over the place. Also visited the dramatic Suleyman Mosque on top of a hill, dedicated to one of the founders of Turkey (Suleyman the Magnificent).
Skipped the overpriced over-touristed Topkapi palace, opting for the more dramatic eerie Basilica Cistern, a huge underground dark cavern supported by 600+ pillars, lit only by strategically placed red and green lighting illuminating the pillars and waters below with the massive fish swimming around, organ music completing the atmosphere. A definite must see.
The grand bazaar/souk/covered market was impressive, though I thought very clean, organised and polished compared to middle east standards. As a result, something felt missing there, it felt more like an ordinary marketplace. Could be that this side of Turkey is very European indeed.
Did a cruise on the Bosphorus strait from Istanbul to the Black Sea and back, passing by ancient beautiful mosques and palaces on the waterfront on the turquoise blue waters, enjoying a delicious fish/calamari/mussels meal in the many fish restaurants waiting eagerly for people on the cruise to arrive...
It is unfortunate, but due to the change of currency (they have scrapped the millions of lire by removing the 6 zeros), their desired entry to the EU, and tourism, prices have gone up dramatically. Some people think that joining the EU would be good for the economy, but the poorer Asian/East part of Turkey is now where near ready to join the EU. We'll just have to wait and see...
GALLIPOLI
Did a small tour involving Gallipoli and Troy (got ripped off too!).
Gallipoli was impressive, being able to walk amongst the trenches, view the extremely steep terrain the ANZACS had to climb up, and the stories of what happened during the war. The war between the Aussies and Turks was considered a "gentlemen’s war", in that they both were evenly matched, and knowing that, believed that killing each other was pointless, instead becoming friends in a war that had nothing really to do with them (Turkey being tricked by Germany to join the Axis, Aussies being told what to do by the Brits with their poor management of the whole affair there).
It is amazing the stories of bravery, courage, and humanity.
One story: The Turks were given rations of tobacco, but had no paper to roll it in. They filled a large bag with tobacco, and waved a white flag to cease fire. A Turkish boy ran to the Aussie trenches a few metres away and gave them the bag with a note along the lines of "We have Tobacco. You have paper. Trade?" The Aussies threw the bag back with all the paper they could fill it with. After that, an eerie silence followed, along with many wisps of smoke coming up from both trenches...
I could tell more, but this email is too long. But I sure feel proud to be an Australian!
TURKISH HOSPITALITY
Stayed the night in Canakkale, where the wooden horse used in the latest Troy movie resides. Got lost finding the hostel, so ended up asking some locals in a shop. They didn't speak English, so I thanked them and was about to leave except they stopped me, saying "one moment, don't go". All three of them then took out their mobile phones and started calling all their friends they knew could speak English! And then, after I explained my situation to the person on the phone, they all led me to the hostel! Turkish hospitality - nothing beats it!
TROY
Went to Troy, which had a dodgy wooden horse in front of the ruins. Troy is actually 9 cities all built on top of one another, the 6th Troy allegedly being the one told in Homers Iliad. The site was pretty boring, and heavy rain didn't really help enhance it. Still, nice to be able to see for myself the location of a legend.
SELCUK AND EPHESUS
Selcuk is a nice town, with a castle and etc, but most people go there to see Ephesus, which is a pretty cool preserved roman ruin, with many statues and pillars gracing the site. The famous library which you see in all postcards is deceptively large (due to the architects brilliance).
PAMUKKALE
A stunning place, Pamukkale is really a rural Turkish village with a touristic street leading to a spectacular natural phenomena –the travertines. Nature has created a mountain where a spring with mineral and calcium deposits trickle down the enter face of the mountain, creating turquoise blue ponds and pools on snow white terraces. On top
there is a thermal bath where you can swim in a pool littered with old pillars and ruins that had been there previously. Definitely a must see!
PARAGLIDING IN OLUDENIZ
Caught a local bus through stunning mountain views and rural villages to Fethiye, a very touristy harbour and coast on the south of Turkey.
Went paragliding in Oludeniz. Absolutely fantastic! First you are driven in a Jeep up rugged terrain and narrow dirt roads up the mountain till you are 2000m up with stunning views all around. Then you put on this outfit and then connected to your pilot. A nice breeze in the right direction, running down a gentle slope, and up in the air you're flying! Oludeniz is the second best place to do paragliding apparently, and the stunning views of the Blue Lagoon, Butterfly Valley and the beaches of Oludeniz is spectacular! Even got to do some spin dive tricks which was wicked!
NEXT?
I will be spending the next two weeks sleeping on boats, treehouses and caves, as I will do a boat cruise to Olympos, chill out there, then go to Cappadocia with stunning natural rock phenomenon! Afterwards I may do East Turkey, or head to Bulgaria Stay tuned!
Merhaba!
THE NOT SO SIMPLE WAY TO ISTANBUL
Because of bad planning, I had booked a flight from Amman Jordan to Istanbul. I had changed my flight 4 times in order to visit the other areas of the middle east, but the location had to stay the same. So, since I was in Israel, I had to make my way to Jordan airport to fly to Turkey.
So, I left Jerusalem to catch a bus to get to the Israeli border into Jordan (which I got through in 2 minutes thanks to a pushy but friendly woman working there who dragged me through to the arms of a waiting bus conductor), then from the border into Amman, in order to catch a bus to the airport. The theory I had was, I could sleep and hang out in the airport, and then enter international airspace before 1am to avoid departure tax. What was I thinking? Got to the airport at 6pm to find that there is nowhere to sleep and no shops to peruse outside the check in point! And I couldn't check in and enter international airspace till 2am (the flight was 4am).
So for 8hrs I did nothing (though did talk to the second Muslim fundamentalist I met that day at a cafe, a good one, not a negative one like the first I met at the bus stop. This second one actually cried when he heard about 9/11, saying that is not true Islam, Islam is about humanity, you can only kill a person as punishment if that person has murdered someone else (to prevent repercussions and enforce justice). Suicide is also a major sin in Islam, meaning suicide bombing is not anything to do with Islam, but of winning a war (think Japanese Kamikaze pilots).
ISTANBUL (OR BYZANTIUM OR CONSTANTINOPLE)
Arrived in Istanbul absolutely knackered, and encountered some exceptional friendliness by the people I met from the airport to the hostel I ended up staying at. Turkish people are generous, friendly and hospitable (but only if they are not trying to sell you something, which unfortunately exists in all the tourist places. For example, trying to find the cost of a bus to another town, they'll insist you go through one of their tours instead. Ask for a good place to eat,
they'll insist you eat at their place only because everywhere else you'll get sick!
Anyway, mix Lisbon, Prague and Stockholm together with a bit of oriental flavouring, and what do you get? Istanbul. Built on two continents, split in three parts by the bosphorus strait, and with beautiful colourful Ottoman, Malmuk and Byzantine buildings, multi-domed multi-minareted mosques, and enormous palaces on the waterfront, Istanbul is a stunning jewel in the crown of Europe.
Went to the famous 400yo Blue Mosque, it's 6 minarets and roof consisting of half domes and domes, the interior decorated with stained glass and patterns giving it the distinctive blue effect within. Aya Sophia, a 1600yo church converted to mosque stands opposite, a beautiful garden separating the two. Aya Sophia is considered designed by God, except I don't think God would have scaffolding all over the place. Also visited the dramatic Suleyman Mosque on top of a hill, dedicated to one of the founders of Turkey (Suleyman the Magnificent).
Skipped the overpriced over-touristed Topkapi palace, opting for the more dramatic eerie Basilica Cistern, a huge underground dark cavern supported by 600+ pillars, lit only by strategically placed red and green lighting illuminating the pillars and waters below with the massive fish swimming around, organ music completing the atmosphere. A definite must see.
The grand bazaar/souk/covered market was impressive, though I thought very clean, organised and polished compared to middle east standards. As a result, something felt missing there, it felt more like an ordinary marketplace. Could be that this side of Turkey is very European indeed.
Did a cruise on the Bosphorus strait from Istanbul to the Black Sea and back, passing by ancient beautiful mosques and palaces on the waterfront on the turquoise blue waters, enjoying a delicious fish/calamari/mussels meal in the many fish restaurants waiting eagerly for people on the cruise to arrive...
It is unfortunate, but due to the change of currency (they have scrapped the millions of lire by removing the 6 zeros), their desired entry to the EU, and tourism, prices have gone up dramatically. Some people think that joining the EU would be good for the economy, but the poorer Asian/East part of Turkey is now where near ready to join the EU. We'll just have to wait and see...
GALLIPOLI
Did a small tour involving Gallipoli and Troy (got ripped off too!).
Gallipoli was impressive, being able to walk amongst the trenches, view the extremely steep terrain the ANZACS had to climb up, and the stories of what happened during the war. The war between the Aussies and Turks was considered a "gentlemen’s war", in that they both were evenly matched, and knowing that, believed that killing each other was pointless, instead becoming friends in a war that had nothing really to do with them (Turkey being tricked by Germany to join the Axis, Aussies being told what to do by the Brits with their poor management of the whole affair there).
It is amazing the stories of bravery, courage, and humanity.
One story: The Turks were given rations of tobacco, but had no paper to roll it in. They filled a large bag with tobacco, and waved a white flag to cease fire. A Turkish boy ran to the Aussie trenches a few metres away and gave them the bag with a note along the lines of "We have Tobacco. You have paper. Trade?" The Aussies threw the bag back with all the paper they could fill it with. After that, an eerie silence followed, along with many wisps of smoke coming up from both trenches...
I could tell more, but this email is too long. But I sure feel proud to be an Australian!
TURKISH HOSPITALITY
Stayed the night in Canakkale, where the wooden horse used in the latest Troy movie resides. Got lost finding the hostel, so ended up asking some locals in a shop. They didn't speak English, so I thanked them and was about to leave except they stopped me, saying "one moment, don't go". All three of them then took out their mobile phones and started calling all their friends they knew could speak English! And then, after I explained my situation to the person on the phone, they all led me to the hostel! Turkish hospitality - nothing beats it!
TROY
Went to Troy, which had a dodgy wooden horse in front of the ruins. Troy is actually 9 cities all built on top of one another, the 6th Troy allegedly being the one told in Homers Iliad. The site was pretty boring, and heavy rain didn't really help enhance it. Still, nice to be able to see for myself the location of a legend.
SELCUK AND EPHESUS
Selcuk is a nice town, with a castle and etc, but most people go there to see Ephesus, which is a pretty cool preserved roman ruin, with many statues and pillars gracing the site. The famous library which you see in all postcards is deceptively large (due to the architects brilliance).
PAMUKKALE
A stunning place, Pamukkale is really a rural Turkish village with a touristic street leading to a spectacular natural phenomena –the travertines. Nature has created a mountain where a spring with mineral and calcium deposits trickle down the enter face of the mountain, creating turquoise blue ponds and pools on snow white terraces. On top
there is a thermal bath where you can swim in a pool littered with old pillars and ruins that had been there previously. Definitely a must see!
PARAGLIDING IN OLUDENIZ
Caught a local bus through stunning mountain views and rural villages to Fethiye, a very touristy harbour and coast on the south of Turkey.
Went paragliding in Oludeniz. Absolutely fantastic! First you are driven in a Jeep up rugged terrain and narrow dirt roads up the mountain till you are 2000m up with stunning views all around. Then you put on this outfit and then connected to your pilot. A nice breeze in the right direction, running down a gentle slope, and up in the air you're flying! Oludeniz is the second best place to do paragliding apparently, and the stunning views of the Blue Lagoon, Butterfly Valley and the beaches of Oludeniz is spectacular! Even got to do some spin dive tricks which was wicked!
NEXT?
I will be spending the next two weeks sleeping on boats, treehouses and caves, as I will do a boat cruise to Olympos, chill out there, then go to Cappadocia with stunning natural rock phenomenon! Afterwards I may do East Turkey, or head to Bulgaria Stay tuned!
Monday, June 20, 2005
Israel
Tiberius (Lake of Galilee) - Nazareth - Acre - Tel Aviv
Shalom!
So, left Jerusalem after parting company with Richard, who went back into Jordan to meet a friend. It feels weird travelling alone again...
Headed for Tiberius, which is a town on the Sea of Galilee, which is where Jesus did most of his preaching and miracles such as walk on water, and multiply the fish and bread etc...
THE SEA OF GALLILEE
For some reason I thought it would be a wonderful idea to cycle around the Sea (57km), and visit the sites along the lakeside. Should have done my research. First of all, it's extremely hot and humid at the lake. Secondly, there is no lakeside path, you ride on the main road, which involves lots of traffic and uphill riding. So I only made it 20km to the main holy sights to the north of the lake, which of course were all marked with a church being built on top of it. I was only able to wade in the water at one point near a church marking Jesus handing his ministry to Peter, where small fish swim all around you, and very happy Christians sing and clap out of tune along the waters edge.
Ate a fish from the Sea of Galilee for dinner. Because It's what you do.
NAZARETH
Nazareth is a large predominantly Arab town with many hills and panoramic views. But the real attraction is the basilica of the Annunciation, where Mary accepted to receive Jesus, in her house (which is a grotto actually). Also on the location is Josephs carpentry shop (another grotto), and the Synagogue where Jesus went as a youngster (still a Synagogue). The basilica is impressive, it's exterior bland but the interior decorated with colourful sculptures and artwork from all over the world, and constructed to look like the inside of a barn, even with horizontal beams holding the roof up, except concrete is used to imitate wood...
Stayed the night at a convent across the road, which unfortunately locks you in a 9:30pm so I couldn't really explore the town at night. Not that you need to, as the city shuts down after 7pm!
ACRE
Went to the historic Crusader town of Acre. 5000 years of history, conquest, and reconquest have left this town with an ancient souk, solid fort walls with moat, an underground Crusader city and water tunnels (lots of fun exploring), all picturesquely set on the sea peninsula. Amazing stuff!
TEL AVIV
I went to Tel Aviv for two reasons: Beaches, and Nightlife. And I'm happy to say I got both in abundance, which is why I am writing this with only 4 hours of sleep and a lighter wallet. The nightlife doesn't compare to Beirut (nor do the girls - though, and many travellers agree on this, the Israeli women soldiers in their fitted uniforms are hot! Though being armed with huge heavy machine guns, one does not feel compelled to approach, lest they say the wrong thing or offend. Speaking of which, it takes a while to get used to the high number of young soldiers on national service on public transport, their machine guns hanging casually on their backs or on their laps pointed disconcertingly right at you.
Kept meeting people from Australia who are in Israel on some free Jewish programs, some involving a free 10 day tour of Israel! In fact, being a Jew in Israel, one gets many free things, such as free accommodation, food and drink in certain places. Was wondering if I could fake being a Jew for the freebies...hmm somehow I don't think I could pull it off..
Now I’m about to head for the Israel/Jordan border, to get into Jordan, so I can fly to Turkey at 4:30am tomorrow morning... looks like I won't be getting any sleep tonight either!
Shalom!
So, left Jerusalem after parting company with Richard, who went back into Jordan to meet a friend. It feels weird travelling alone again...
Headed for Tiberius, which is a town on the Sea of Galilee, which is where Jesus did most of his preaching and miracles such as walk on water, and multiply the fish and bread etc...
THE SEA OF GALLILEE
For some reason I thought it would be a wonderful idea to cycle around the Sea (57km), and visit the sites along the lakeside. Should have done my research. First of all, it's extremely hot and humid at the lake. Secondly, there is no lakeside path, you ride on the main road, which involves lots of traffic and uphill riding. So I only made it 20km to the main holy sights to the north of the lake, which of course were all marked with a church being built on top of it. I was only able to wade in the water at one point near a church marking Jesus handing his ministry to Peter, where small fish swim all around you, and very happy Christians sing and clap out of tune along the waters edge.
Ate a fish from the Sea of Galilee for dinner. Because It's what you do.
NAZARETH
Nazareth is a large predominantly Arab town with many hills and panoramic views. But the real attraction is the basilica of the Annunciation, where Mary accepted to receive Jesus, in her house (which is a grotto actually). Also on the location is Josephs carpentry shop (another grotto), and the Synagogue where Jesus went as a youngster (still a Synagogue). The basilica is impressive, it's exterior bland but the interior decorated with colourful sculptures and artwork from all over the world, and constructed to look like the inside of a barn, even with horizontal beams holding the roof up, except concrete is used to imitate wood...
Stayed the night at a convent across the road, which unfortunately locks you in a 9:30pm so I couldn't really explore the town at night. Not that you need to, as the city shuts down after 7pm!
ACRE
Went to the historic Crusader town of Acre. 5000 years of history, conquest, and reconquest have left this town with an ancient souk, solid fort walls with moat, an underground Crusader city and water tunnels (lots of fun exploring), all picturesquely set on the sea peninsula. Amazing stuff!
TEL AVIV
I went to Tel Aviv for two reasons: Beaches, and Nightlife. And I'm happy to say I got both in abundance, which is why I am writing this with only 4 hours of sleep and a lighter wallet. The nightlife doesn't compare to Beirut (nor do the girls - though, and many travellers agree on this, the Israeli women soldiers in their fitted uniforms are hot! Though being armed with huge heavy machine guns, one does not feel compelled to approach, lest they say the wrong thing or offend. Speaking of which, it takes a while to get used to the high number of young soldiers on national service on public transport, their machine guns hanging casually on their backs or on their laps pointed disconcertingly right at you.
Kept meeting people from Australia who are in Israel on some free Jewish programs, some involving a free 10 day tour of Israel! In fact, being a Jew in Israel, one gets many free things, such as free accommodation, food and drink in certain places. Was wondering if I could fake being a Jew for the freebies...hmm somehow I don't think I could pull it off..
Now I’m about to head for the Israel/Jordan border, to get into Jordan, so I can fly to Turkey at 4:30am tomorrow morning... looks like I won't be getting any sleep tonight either!
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